Surf is looking a little bigger this Sunday

Shot this on the roof here at OB Sunday morning.

I can surf again! And the surf is good!

6 months out of the water, 5 months after my left knee ACL reconstruction surgery and I got the go-ahead from my Doc to resume normal activities such as surfing. YEAH! And check it out the surf is good!

Don't forget to get out those red/blue glasses because a lot of these are in 3D. If you click on them you can see them bigger too.

3D opening shot out front here at Ocean Beach this morning.

Today was actually my 2nd day back in the water. I got an AM surf in on Friday before work and didn't have time to take any pictures. My surf session got cut a little short today (I'll explain later) so I went and grabbed my cameras to take some pictures.

Check out the giant bird fishing for surfers.

That is ED. I work with ED. Sometimes I surf with Ed too. We headed out to O.B. together today. His surf session wasn't cut short but by the time I got back with my cameras to take some pics of him surfing he was just getting out.

Hi Ed.

Ed makes boards for himself from time to time. That's one of them there. I had a chance to ride it before breaking my knee. It's a fun board.

Ed smiling for the camera at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA.

Here are some random people having fun this morning.

The waves ranged from just smaller than this...


...to a little bigger than this.

This guy had a good ride. To bad I didn't have any video tapes for my video cameras.









There were plenty of waves to go around today. Here's a series of shots that makes it look like a party out there. Everyone grab a wave or even use the buddy system if you want!






PARTY!

So here is why I had plenty of time to take pictures.

It doesn't look half bad like that but it was more fun about 20 min before this picture was taken. I caught my one and only wave of the day. It was probably a little over head, I dropped in made my bottom turn and started down the line. It was fast and fun. Then the wave walled up all the way down in front of me. I tried to turn to get out in front of the wave but either because I've been out of the water for 6 months or I wasn't fast enough and I got sucked up and over. It was no big deal and seemed like a pretty tame wipe out. Apparently my board wasn't as lucky as me. I can't complain after all the fun I've had on it for the past 5 years.

On the bright side my 9'2" will fit inside my Mini now -:]

Sunset Surf in The Sunset

It was warmer than most the two warm summer days we get a year today and you can see how hot the sun was.

I wish I could have been sitting out there waiting for one more wave.

That looks like a pretty mellow wave.

This guy got a little more action.

Watch out for that chimney dude.

You can almost hear it sizzling.

New Binocular Mount

I got a binocular mount for my point and shoot digital camera(s). This is the first test and it seems to be working pretty good.

Not a bad looking Thursday morning.

To bad my knee still has a month or two left before it's safe to surf -:\

Shaky Sunday Afternoon

I was in a bit of a rush Sunday and didn't setup a tripod or stereo rig. But I did manage to shoot some hand held footage of some decent sized waves from my roof here at OB. I tried to stabilize the video a little in post but it only worked on a few shots. I guess because I was having problems with my new lens extender. I think it actually looks kind of fun though.

Knee Surgery and Work

I tore my ACL had surgery and have been recovering for the last 4 months and have a few months to go. Here is a cool video of them drilling holes in my bone, putting a new ACL in and a screw to hold it in place. I hope she holds.

It's amazing of fast your leg shrinks when you don't use it. Here is what happened after about a week off my leg. IN 3D!

Nice right?

On top of that the movie I have been working on has had me working 12 hour days 6 days a week (well only 10 hrs on Saturdays) for the past two months with physicaltherapy for my knee. What fun!

It all made me to lazy to post anything here. But the movie is winding down, my knee is way better and I'm ready to catch up on the last 3 or 4 months of posting I have meant to do.

Gray Saturday Afternoon

I heard the surf at Kelly Ave went off this morning and was in the double over head range with big hollow barrels breaking in 4 feet of water. My friend who surfed it said it was intense. Or did he say scary? I have been out of the water for a few months and only 2 or 3 days before that since Christmas so I played it safe. I hit a beach with some fun waist to head high waves and had a few hours of fun then went in to work. Saturday afternoon the fog rolled in. When I got home this is what it looked like at OB. Not to inviting unless you were out to catch some dinner. I went and got some pizza.

It's been a while

I think it's been almost 2 months since I've been in the water -:[ Long story short a decent swell hit this week and I managed to get out 4 times and take a few pictures on Friday.

And what a nice Friday it turned out to be. Check out the Sunrise at Kelly Ave. In Half Moon Bay. Oh, and see that point of land in the upper right? That's the north end of Half Moon Bay and about 1/4 mile out from the tip is Mavericks -:] It looks so peaceful from here. Well it probably is since I think it needs to be close to triple over head before it starts breaking and it was only just a bit over head Friday.

I only managed one wave before I was worn out (what? I've been out of the water 2 months) and had to head in to work. I took a few more pictures before heading out. Check out the guy in the yellow helmet getting ready.

There is the guy in the yellow helmet about to paddle out.

There he is again paddling into a decent looking wave.

Go! Go! Go!

Now pop up!

What are you doing?

Good thing he had a helmet on -;]

On my way back home to rinse off I stopped at another good break and shot this guy dropping in to a decent sized wave. I wish I could have stayed longer and got more shots because this wave was at least a few feet smaller than some of the others I saw the guys out just miss. But I was late for work and had to role.

Not to much going on

So the surf hasn't been all that sweet looking and I haven't made it out a whole lot since my last posts. And with the less than spectacular waves I haven't been taking any pictures. But I hope that will change soon at least as far as having pictures to post. I just ordered some new video cameras to strap to my head and paddle out with. Here's hoping they are water proof enough and sync good so I can put up some first person stereo 3d surf images!