Mavericks First Big Swell of the Season

Here is the janky ass video I shot of Mavericks. I didn't have any video tapes for my stereo 3d rig so I shot this with my point and shoot. You can see the rig below. Anyway it was fun to get out and watch the first big swell of the season!


A couple of guys getting ready to head out. I love those boards.


A lady with bigger balls than most tough guys getting ready to go out.


This is the view from where I was standing. This is at the top of a 40-50 foot is cliff and is probably one of the best spots you can watch from short of being in the water. That wave in the middle top which is the farthest out is the break. There is actually someone riding it and if you click to view the bigger image you can almost make them out but probably not. The guy there in front of me had a huge lens.


Here is what that barbed wire fence protects. It's some kind of Navy installation. I think mostly weather and radar stuff. It has the prime spot for watching Mavericks and normal people are not aloud in.


Here is the top of the cliff. In this picture you can see just about all of the top of the cliff that you can watch from. I was standing along the very steep back side of the cliff. Not a whole lot of room for spectators. I think only 10-20 cameras could get a good view or maybe 30-40 people.


Here a view from the same spot looking down. It's a pretty steep climb as you can see from the guy making his way up. There are some spots along that edge you can watch from but they are not so comfy and less than the best view.


This is they guy who was in front of me with his huge lens. I bet he got better shots than me.


Here is the super cheap and small gheto lens extender rig I took with me. It's why my video is less than super. The clamp thing cost $20 from B&H Photo and totally worth it for lo-tech video. Though my rig is cheap and less than perfect I actually really enjoy the janky quality of the video I shoot with it.


All hooked up and ready to go. I hand held all of my shots and had to do a lot of post deshake to make it kind of watchable.


This is the end I spend most of my time looking at.

Fun at the Jetty

Got to the Jetty early and had plenty of time to surf thanks to the fall back.


Here is a mid size wave from this morning. There were bigger and smaller waves and most of them were clean and fun.


Shot this video. Just about everyone ended up getting caught inside when the set came through so I didn't really capture the magic that was happening here today but the video was okay so I put it up.

Novembers Starts off With a Bang

Yesterday was small mellow OB.

Today Not so much.


Nice.


And there is what OB is all about. Make sure to click on the images to see them bigger.

Halloween Surf

It was nice and foggy today.


Perfect for a Halloween Surf!


It was kind of small about waist to shoulder high.


I went out and got a bunch of waves a few were really fun.
Watch out for the fog people! Happy Halloween!

Bioluminescent Birthday!

So it's my birthday and I headed out for a birthday dawn patrol. Everyone bailed on me but being my birthday I wasn't going to let that stop me today. I hit the place I most wanted to surf and ended up getting there a little before sunrise. I was watching for waves and noticed that the bigger sets (which weren't very big, maybe waist) seemed to be greenish. I thought it was from a stop light down the road. But it was the wrong color green and the light was pretty far away. Then I noticed it was actually in the wave not reflecting off it. The waves white water was still white in the light but there was a green glow inside the bigger waves. It looked like a green lighting storm inside the waves as they broke. The smaller waves didn't glow or at least not enough for me to see. It was starting to get light so it was probably washing most of the glowing out. I bet it looked really cool about an hour before I got there. Still It was a great birthday present from mother nature. I only had my phone camera on me which wouldn't have come close to capturing it so no pictures. Sorry.

Little Clean OBX Wave

I was back east in the Outer Banks, NC for my yearly week long family vacation. Surfed every day except the day we arrived at 8pm and the day we left at 6am. Mostly knee high waves with a few in the waist maybe higher but pretty clean and fun enough.

This was my only successful attempt at getting a shot of a tiny barrel.

More Love Notes

Ok, ok I feel the love. Now stop stalking me.